Also make yourself some set-up bearings for the carriers and the pinions you plan to be doing a lot of as ot will save you a ton of time. Differential Pinion Depth Gauge Checker Tool Kit Fit For GM 10-12 Bolt, Ford 7.5'' 8'' 8.8'' 9'', Dana 30-70, And Most Differentials, Replace For T&D 11001 Pinion Depth Checker 47999 Get it as soon as Tue, Oct 11 FREE Shipping by Amazon Only 18 left in stock - order soon. You may have to remove and install a bearing many times to get the settings right so being able to do it without damage is important. A knife edge 2 pc one that gets wedged under the bearing is shit and will damage the shims, if you can even get one to work. The clamshell one that allows you to remove bearing without damage and without hurting the shims that may be under them. The most important thing you need tool wise is the big blue and red bearing puller. That being said, even the jobs I've done that started with an empty housing I never really felt the need to dig it out. That gives you a starting point that will be in the ballpark for shim selections. Most ring and pinion jobs you are replacing an existing ring and pinion. I no longer use it since I feel it wasted more time than it saved. Stay tuned for part 2 of this for blog on what the number etched on pinion gears really mean.I have a pinion depth tool that I've used two or three times. Increasing pinion depth will also increase pinion-bearing preload unless the outer pinion shims are adjusted. Decreasing pinion depth also increases backlash and moves the drive pattern slightly towards the heel, and the coast pattern slightly towards the toe. Increasing pinion depth also decreases backlash and moves drive pattern slightly towards toe, and coast pattern slightly towards the heel. Adding or subtracting a single shim of one thou can, and does, make a difference. Note: When adjusting pinion depth, begin with a starting shim stack and make large adjustments at first (10-20 thou) until the correct setting is bracketed then make progressively smaller adjustments until the final setting is achieved. Removing shims moves pinion further away from ring gear center-line, moving the pattern from the root to the top. Adding shims moves pinion closer to ring-gear center-line, moving the pattern from the top to the root. There exist specialized tools for measuring pinion depth, but they are expensive, aren’t necessary, and are only used to calculate a starting point – final proof always lies in the contact pattern.Īdjusted Via: Inner pinion shims placed between the housing and the inner pinion-bearing cup. How Measured: The final determination of correct pinion depth can only be obtained by reading and interpreting the gear tooth contact pattern using gear-marking compound. Increasing pinion depth moves the pinion closer to the center-line of the ring gear, moving the pinion “deeper” into ring-gear teeth and reducing the checking distance. Proper pinion depth makes sure the pinion teeth mesh with the middle of the teeth on the ring-gear – between the top and the root. Think of it as: How close the head of the pinion is to the center-line of the ring-gear. We get lots of questions about setting pinon depth so I wanted to come on and give some basics on what it is, how to measure it and where to start.ĭefinition: Position of pinion-gear relative to the ring-gear center-line, expressed as either a mounting distance (measured from behind the pinion head to the center-line of the ring gear) or a checking distance (measured from the face of the pinion head to the center-line of the ring gear).
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